This is a story about three friends. All of whom herald from the same small coastal town in Western Java, all of whom had fallen under the spell of surfing. A spell cast by those first surf pioneers who roamed the southern coast of Java looking for waves during the ’70s, ’80s, and ’90s. It’s a small knit community in their town in paradise. Full of people who rely on each other for everything. A place where they shared what little they had. For these three, and a handful of others who aren’t the focus of this yarn, that included the first surfboards they’d managed to acquire through travelers either from breakage or gifts. Their town was fortuitous enough to be on the map for the water magicians who passed through. Blessed with a wave that’s now something of an international attraction. But that’s not the focus of this story either.
As with all the great epic traditions, Zye Norris, your archetypal ‘salty dude’ sallied forth and spent, a lot more than the titled, one hundred days in the water, crossing lands, and just wallowing about in a variety of vacuous rooms. His journey saw him ...
Read moreHis friends call him Cuddles, something about how it makes him blush when you do. It’s funny though, everyone that Matt Cuddihy meets seems to become a friend, he’s just so damn likable. As a surfer, well, rather than blow smoke up his bum, we thought we w...
Read moreWhen the season changes and the trade winds swing from east to west, the swells hitting the shores start to drop or get so wind affected they aren’t worth chasing. It’s then that you know that the fun you had been having has now left for a spell. The ease ...
Read moreThere is a saying in South Africa, “Die weskus is die beste kus” which literally means, “The west coast is the best coast.” And after our last little road trip, there are no arguments coming from this quarter. If you ever wanted to understand every nuance ...
Read moreLife pleasures come in all different forms. For us, these pleasures involve a VW van, the pacific ocean, and camping above the clouds. We forget how far our reach is. Voluntarily getting stuck in our bubbles that we forget that there is something beyond i...
Read moreIt was about a week out that we saw a swell headed our way. It appeared as a big red cloud of potential creeping up the west coast of Australia and our first thoughts were to see if we could position ourselves between it and where it was to crash on the Ba...
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